27.10.07

This girl was in the lineup

Yeah I know what your thinking, "Yeah sure she was in the friggin' line up" but for real, I was sitting there at pipe it was 6ft pure glass, no one out. I paddled over the sholder of a wave, taking my time to feel the line out, and there she was, just like this, looking back at me. That look in her eyes saying, "Glad you're here, was getting a bit lonely out here"
I said "hi" she said, "do you have any wax? My board is all wet and slippery, it needs a good rub down"
The only shitty part about the whole scene was when my friggin alarm rang, she vanashed and I realised I had to go to work!!!!!
But I guess thats what you get when you get home drunk, throw on a surf vid or 2 then a quick prono before bed huh?

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