9.10.08

A cool moment!

I went down to a local surf spot here in Japan the other day. We had just had a taifun (typhoon) swell to play with for the entire week prior and as such I was getting spoiled. The waves had been head to head and a half all week, well shaped, off shore, hitting the reef from just the right angle. To tell the truth I was feeling pretty surfed out. The waves were all junked up by a heavy onshore wind that came as tail of the taifun passed over. I had my board in the car but thought, nah, head back to bed and have a lazy day. As I turned around I saw one of the most odd ball father son setups I have ever seen coming towards me and thought 'stick around see what these two do'. The father was well on in years and just looked like your typical old Japanese fisherman, the son was a tanned stocky guy carrying a twin fin retro fish and donning a crazy Mohawk. They were pointing at the junky waves getting all excited!

The son, skipped erratically up and down the seawall, looking for the best place to paddle out, while the dad stoically sat on a rock with his hands on his knees and gazed out to sea. Later after the son paddled out I asked the father if he was a surfer to which he replied, 'No, but I sure wish the sport had been around when I was young enough to have tried it, at least it brings me and my son together around the ocean'. I don't know why but this moment just really stuck in my mind and I thought I would share these pics I snapped with you all.

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